Adjusting a waistcoat for the fuller figure.

Well, I thought I was smart, filling up on Boeuf Guinness in Fallon & Byrne last night, but didn’t realize it would take me about ten hours to digest. So, in another creative burst of energy, I drafted D’s waistcoat and cut out the lining, stitched in the darts and the side and back seams. Since the lining and outer shell are to be identical, I thought I’d do the fitting from the lining and then make any necessary changes to the main garment.

Overall, the width turned out to be 6cm small, the back pieces needed extra seam allowances added in of 1.5 cm each and the darts weren’t sitting over the full of her bosom as much as I’d have liked.

To adjust the waistcoat for the fuller figure, I added on 3 cm to each inner front piece.

This was more straight forward for the outer piece because I had yet to draft it (see diagram with outer piece still attached to the lining).

However, I’ll have to rip out the polka dot lining and add on a 6cm piece (3cm for the increase, and 1.5 x 2 for the seam allowances) to the front and 6cm piece for the back (see diagram 2). Hopefully, the patches will look like design features in themselves.

I’m going to take a break from this job now because I’m working on improvising over slow blues in G…and I’ve got the guts of a new song to go with it too. Untill the next time….

The Bolero

My mother who we call DD, stuffed a little bit of money into my pocket today and told me to buy something nice for myself. I was gob-smacked. “Why are you doing that? You’re a pensioner now for crying out loud”.
“Because, you’re nice” she said. Coming from DD, “nice” isn’t an insult meaning; doormat. Nice means you’re a good egg and pocket-money is a reward for listening, smiling and making the best BLT money can’t buy. I thanked her and tipped into town on the Dublin Bike. Murphy Sheehy’s have a lovely supply of Liberty fabrics at the moment but I ended up buying indigo satin back crepe and navy & white polka dot lining to make DD a waistcoat.

Before I go on, I must tell you about the bolero I made last week. Its handwoven silk from India. I bought it as a remnant in London for £50 last November. It’s a regal swirling pattern in red, royal blue and gold.

A Bolero is also a Spanish dance in ¾ and a Cuban dance in 2/4.
It is also a woman’s short jacket that stops above the waist and has no fastenings.

I made it in a burst of energy last Sunday afternoon and it gave me the idea to start a blog about dressmaking and tailoring. I’ve been making clothes all my life but I’ve still got a lot to learn.