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Right Side/Wrong Side

What do you mean by ‘right side’? Which is the ‘wrong side’? This is fundamental to understand when you are cutting out fabrics. The right side is the side of the fabric you will see when wearing the garment. The wrong side will be the inside. When you have to cut something out twice, you don’t have to cut the pattern piece out twice separately. You simply fold the fabric over, place the pattern piece on, pin and cut. You will get a mirror image, i.e. the left and right, opposite facing sides of the piece you want. This might seem fundamental to most of you but believe me, it is a very confusing area for the beginner.

This is a liberty fabric I bought in Murphy Sheehy’s. Its 150 cm wide. It shows the ‘wrong’ side on the left and the ‘right’ side on the right hand side of the picture.

What’s this all about?

I suppose this needs some explanation. I’m a musician but my roots (actually, I don’t know which one came first) are in something more tangible- threads! I teach home economics and write songs in my spare time.  I reason to myself that if one is working with an abstract medium a lot, then one needs to balance that out with something they can physically touch and feel.  It’s probably why home ec and music go well with each other (sometimes).  So, here’s the blurb;

I originally set up U Seam Nice to help people make their own clothes and to evaluate the quality of the clothes we buy.  I love tailored cuts, working with my hands and expensive, luxurious fabrics. I dislike and will not waste my money on shoddy clothes produced in 3rd world sweat shops.  I love to upcycle worn and loved items.  I expect this outlook will evolve as I learn more and share what I learn here. 

By the way, if you want to start sewing, I recommend you make a cushion cover. No illustration required I hope? Next, you should make a skirt. If you are an absolute beginner, I recommend you have only one or two processes, i.e., a pocket, a waistband, a zip, a pleat or simple darts. Try and avoid lining to begin with. However, my star pupil, Georgina Cunningham, didn’t have a clue what to do three months ago when we started. She plunged into a mauve pink wool tweed skirt, exactly like the one shown here. More about that when she’s finished her hem and I’ll post it up for you to look at.

U Seam Nice mission statement & philosophy

Why am I doing this?

I also want to share my sewing projects with you.

Where does U SEAM NICE want to go?

A resource for sewing enthusiasts

What kind of comments do we want?

We want to know what you are making. We want to see it.

What’s the philosophy of U Seam Nice?

U Seam Nice is a technical, self-confessed fashion fanatic online resource set up to help people make their own clothes. U Seam Nice love tailored cuts, working with our hands and expensive, luxurious fabrics. We promote quality, resourcefulness and recycling. We customize. We embellish. We’re sewing for dummies. We look sharp. We work in 3D.

Adjusting a waistcoat for the fuller figure.

Well, I thought I was smart, filling up on Boeuf Guinness in Fallon & Byrne last night, but didn’t realize it would take me about ten hours to digest. So, in another creative burst of energy, I drafted D’s waistcoat and cut out the lining, stitched in the darts and the side and back seams. Since the lining and outer shell are to be identical, I thought I’d do the fitting from the lining and then make any necessary changes to the main garment.

Overall, the width turned out to be 6cm small, the back pieces needed extra seam allowances added in of 1.5 cm each and the darts weren’t sitting over the full of her bosom as much as I’d have liked.

To adjust the waistcoat for the fuller figure, I added on 3 cm to each inner front piece.

This was more straight forward for the outer piece because I had yet to draft it (see diagram with outer piece still attached to the lining).

However, I’ll have to rip out the polka dot lining and add on a 6cm piece (3cm for the increase, and 1.5 x 2 for the seam allowances) to the front and 6cm piece for the back (see diagram 2). Hopefully, the patches will look like design features in themselves.

I’m going to take a break from this job now because I’m working on improvising over slow blues in G…and I’ve got the guts of a new song to go with it too. Untill the next time….